we Fremantle, Australia was the last port Pop sailed into before reaching Calcutta and the CBI Theater in World War II. In one of his letters he described an “armada” of allied shipping gathered in this staging area, although, to me, it does not look a big enough harbor to harbor an armada. After Hobart this is the place he wanted to return to. It … Continue reading Frebo
Albany itself sits on a spectacular shoreline where waves (which I can certainly feel now as we sail along the south coast of Australia) from the Southern Ocean, generated by Antarctic storms, crash against a granite shoreline creating gaps and natural bridges along with some sand beaches in Torndirrup National Park, which we visited. Along the way we saw some kangaroo! And the town itself … Continue reading Albany and Torndirrup National Park,
Albany, Western Australia has monuments dedicated to two slaughters. You get a hint at the first slaughter when you sail into Princess Royal Harbor through the Ataturk Entrance. It was named after the Turkish General who pushed back of members of the Australia, New Zealand Army Corps (ANZAC) at Gallipoli during the First World War. There is a corresponding ANZAC point in Turkey. Albany was … Continue reading A Town Reflecting on Slaughter.
Being on a cruise ship is somewhat like living on an island in Alaska. Sometimes you run out of stuff and can’t replace it easily. During much of our kids’ growing up it was difficult to get fresh milk that hadn’t spoiled. The kids got used to Milkman powdered milk. Sometimes when weather hindered transportation we would run out of odd things, once there was … Continue reading Why Cruise Ship Life is a Lot Like Living in Southeast Alaska.
Adelaide boasts that its Fringe Festival is the second largest in the world (Edinburgh is first.) But more importantly it’s “The Biggest in the Southern Hemisphere.” Which is code for “Bigger than Sydney’s” and we landed in the middle of it. There are festival venues along the Rundle Mall and in almost every theater in the city, but “action central” is in the parks to … Continue reading Fringe Flash – Adelaide
In Albania the standard greeting is “Mire Dita, Si Jeni?” “Good Day, How are you?” As an American I always answered in the optimistic, “Doing great!” or “I’m well.” Once someone caught me up and asked “Why are you always doing well, do you hear from your son every day?” and followed with: “You are always doing well, this is, I think an American thing?” … Continue reading Doin’ OK in Adelaide
Sometimes things go wrong on a ship. It is a big mechanical conglomeration of parts that is beat around by high winds and seas that rise 30 feet. Parts of it pop out of the water and slam down again in high seas. A ship has to undergo a lot of torque. So things sometimes go wrong. This week it was our turn. Friday we … Continue reading It Must Be Raindrops
Each Community Station is unique but somehow we are all the same. This was to be our one shot at seeing Australian Wildlife in the wild. Instead we found a community radio station. Kangaroo Island is an island nearly 100 miles long off the coast of South Australia that has a lot of its land dedicated to national park and wildlife reserves. We had planned … Continue reading Community Radio and Kangaroos.
I am writing this Thursday afternoon. Wednesday we were hove to off the island of Tasmania, nose into the wind, blowing up to 90 knots, surrounded by green water, 9 meter (29 foot) seas and making no process. We made it up the coast of Tasmania before the storm caught us. The Captain adjusted ballast and waited for the winds to abate and for lower … Continue reading Public Art and Pocket Parks — Hobart
To my dad Hobart was a kind of heaven. He had been on a troop ship, the Washington, for a long time out of San Francisco. The Japanese had reported sinking her but she zig zagged safely through the North and South Pacific, making landfall in Hobart, Tasmania, before heading on to Freemantle and finally Calcutta. Pop described, both in a letter to Mom and … Continue reading Fulfilling Pop’s Dream – Cruising into Hobart.
A highlight of the Central Business District (CBD( is the Queen Victoria Building (QVB). It’s one of those Victorian iron and glass structures that followed the first world’s fair at crystal palace. It was an architecture style that was used in railway stations and markets around the world. Here in Sydney this Victorian arcade is not made up of funky little shops but upscale boutiques. … Continue reading QVB in the CBD
Bondi Beach is the closest beach to Sydney, only 7 km (5 miles) from the center and on public transport. It’s a 1.5 KM long crescent of sand between two headlands. Bondi is an aboriginal word for “water breaking.” Rebellious workers made their way here on weekends at the end of the 19th century against the desires of their “betters” (or “Wowsers” in Aussie speak) … Continue reading Working Man’s Beach — Bondi
At Sunset each night and again at 9 PM “Badu Gili” or “Water Light” is projected onto the Eastern Bennelong Sail of the Sydney Opera House. It is a 7 minute moving display of aboriginal art set to music. Continue reading Badu Gili – Water Light.
The Sydney Opera House is one of those iconic structures that define a city, like the Eifel Tower, the Statue of Liberty or Big Ben. But perhaps it is misnamed. It is more an overall performing arts center. The concert hall is bigger than the opera hall, and there are three other theaters and several restaurants in the complex. We spent a good 6 hours … Continue reading Sydney Opera House.
The Rocks is (I labored over this, “The Rocks is” sounds bad but “The Rocks” is a district so I am counting it as a singular) the birthplace of Sydney, on a peninsula of land in the harbor. Now the district is bisected by the approach to the Sydney Harbor Bridge. For a long time is was the center for bars and brothels. Then it … Continue reading The Rocks Is
Texture can evoke memory. I’ve not used a paper straw in years. But here in Sydney at “The Tea Cozy” they’ve given me a paper straw and the taste and texture of it bring back childhood memories. We’re having tea and scones in “The Rocks,” the quarter where Sydney started. The scones are traditional with Devonshire clotted cream. But being Australia the tea is iced … Continue reading Community Knitting Project — Sydney
The Rough Guide to New Zealand suggests that the best time to visit Milford Sound is during a rainstorm. I suppose this is a good attitude to have since it rains 180 days a year (sound familiar) delivering around 7 meters (273 inches) of rain annually. During a rain waterfalls pop up everywhere, whole sides of mountains become waterfalls and then the mist rises when … Continue reading Evaporating Waterfalls — Milford Sound
Doubtful Sound was named by Captain Cook because he was doubtful that if he sailed in he could get out again, so he gave it a pass. He left the exploration of the sound to the Spaniard Malaspina. Both Cook and Malaspina visited both New Zealand and Alaska and I am encountering some of the same names, Bligh, Cook, Vancouver, Resolution, Turnagain, and, completely … Continue reading Doubtful Sound but Familiar Names.
On Wednesday we sailed through Fjordland National Park on the South Island. We visited three sounds, Dusky, Doubtful and Milford. Dusky Sound was our first sailing destination at 8 in the morning. Dusky was named by Captain Cook, and on this day it seems to live up to its name. Cook spent time repairing and replenishing his ships on his second voyage after a rough … Continue reading Fjordlands National Park — Dusky Sound
My main goal in Dunedin was to ride the Taieri Gorge Railroad. The narrow gauge line was built from Dunedin to the gold fields at Cromwell. It carried supplies to the gold fields an on the back haul brought agricultural products, especially lovestock, back to Dunedin. In 1980 the government started the Clyde power scheme in which a hydro dam was designed that would flood … Continue reading Taieri Gorge Railroad.
Dunedin (Edinburgh in Gaelic) is a university city. We arrived on Waitangi Day, New Zealand’s National Day. The University of Otago would get underway seriously the next day. It was built as a “little Scotland” by immigrants but it grew to prominence as the supply depot for a gold rush in the interior of the South Island around the end of the 19th century. It … Continue reading A Railway Station and its city – Dunedin
Dunedin, on New Zealand’s south island, is Garlic for Edinburgh and when we sailed into Otago Bay, on which Dunedin and its seaport Port Chalmers are located we could see a similarity with Scotland. One of the main exports from Port Chalmers is wood, and you can see it stacked on the wharves, in the round for shipment to China, and cut into dimension lumber … Continue reading Albatross, Penguins and Timber, Otago Bay, South Island.
Napier reminds me of what I imagine Los Angeles to have looked like in 1940, a mission style art deco with a pleasing climate near the sea. In an earlier post I talked about the earthquake that destroyed Napier New Zealand. The city that rose from the rubble was a unified art deco city. (See post of the earthquake). It’s the city’s main appeal to … Continue reading Art Deco Town – Napier, New Zealand.
A Tragic Solution, The Napier Earthquake Napier, New Zealand was in trouble. It was a growing port that was running out of land. It was losing out to Hastings, a bit inland because it did not have the land for additional industrial and residential growth. Napier has a fishing fleet but also exports timber, fruit and wine. In February 1931 its land problem was solved … Continue reading A Tragic Solution, The Napier Earthquake