Actually it was a little less than 19 miles an hour, 18.9 mph or 16.4 knots as I reckon it. Nineteen miles an hour seems like a leisurely pace to circle the planet. But on a human scale it’s really pretty hectic. To put 19 miles an hour into perspective, the average speed of a runner in the Boston Marathon is 8.8 mph, an average … Continue reading Coda – Around the World at 19 Miles an Hour…*
We were upgraded to first class on flight 67, Alaska Airline’s “milk run” up the coast to home. It seems like we knew every 4th person passing us getting on the plane. We had early boarding because Suzi broke her leg that morning in Seattle, (more on that later.) But the way small town life in Alaska is, by the time we got off the … Continue reading S#it Happens — Re-entry
We’ve almost completed our circuit of the earth at the stately speed of 19 knots. Holland America has done most things right on this cruise but I think they overplayed the ending. In the last days we wanted to have some time to pack, reflect, and most of all spend long dinners with new friends. But not wanting the cruise to lag at the end … Continue reading A Whirlwind Finish
Each of these pictures help illustrate a story. The cobble stones paving Old San Juan streets are a metallic blue grey. They were made from slag left over from iron production in England and were carried over as ballast in ships. They are hard and wear well but, I am told, are slippery. Fortunately we did not have rain on our day in San Juan … Continue reading San Juan Stories
We sailed in just at sunrise. At sunset I was on the deck because I thought it was a good perch. Four hours after sunset we sailed out. It is our last sail out of the cruise, beautiful and, in a way sad. Here are some pictures. Continue reading Sunrise, Sunset, Sailout
San Juan was a walled city that spilled out past its walls that were anchored by two forts, Fort Christóbal and El Murro, the oldest Spanish fort in the Americas. In 1898 the US Navy bombarded these walls and breached them, although the landing came on the other side of the island. The English almost took the forts, to find out why they didn’t click … Continue reading Fortified San Juan.
The Immigration officer looked at our passports, asked us our names and then put the passports into a scanner. He tapped a few keys on the keyboard, handed us our passports and said “Welcome Home.” Those words jolted me because we were not home; we were in San Juan, Puerto Rico, and our last “foreign” port of call. It didn’t look like home, it didn’t … Continue reading Are We Home Yet? — San Juan
No matter who we spoke with in San Juan, a driver, a shop keeper, the receptionist in City Hall where we went for directions, Hurricane’s Maria and Irma were not far from anyone’s mind or lips. We saw damage from the blows everywhere we went. The Hilton and Ritz Carleton in San Juan have still not opened. Stucco was blown off the sides of buildings … Continue reading Crowd Sourcing Help Please — San Juan.
We’ve crossed into our 24th time zone, Atlantic Standard Time (or Eastern Daylight Time.) While we have one more port before Fort Lauderdale people are packing. Many are already packed. We are putting that off until the last minute. I’m glad because last night was the final “Gala Night” and on gala nights we get a “pillow gift.” Some of them have been practical (a … Continue reading My Understanding of Stuff
Today we entered our 23rd time zone, one more to go. It’s a sea day and I wanted to continue to write about art on the Amsterdam. In Art 101 I described some of the art work that I see every day. In this post I show some of the pieces that I don’t get to every day but that I enjoy when I do. … Continue reading Amsterdam Art 202 (Sailing Ship Figureheads to Surrealistic Swiss Army Knives)
Sir Francis Drake sacked Cidade Vehla twice. To the British he was a patriotic Privateer. To the people of Cape Verde he was a piratical thug. His two sackings of the low lying Cidade Vehla plus a French attack later caused the Portuguese to move their Cape Verde Capital to Praia, on a plateau high above a more sheltered harbor. But Cidade Vehla is still … Continue reading One Nation’s Hero — Another Nation’s Thug
Every spring Praia hosts two music events, the Kriol Jazz Festival and the Atlantic Music conference. The Jazz festival kicked off the weekend of April 15 and 15 showcasing local talent. It than took a break for the Atlantic Music Expo April 16-19 and on the evening of the 19 (just as we were leaving) the Jazz Festival continues through the following weekend. Cape Verde … Continue reading Kroil Jazz Festival — Cape Verde
Praia, the capital of the Cape Verde Islands, was one of those stops on our cruise that that I thought of as kind of a place holder between Africa and home. I knew three things about the islands, they were a stop for Yankee whalers on the way around Cape Horn (given winds and currents it was often easier to cross the Atlantic twice in … Continue reading Europe with Soul — Cape Verde
I think to dodge the touts as much as anything we took a cab to the Medina (where we did some of our haggling), the Grand Mosque, which has minarets that look either like radomes or giant golf balls on tees and drover along the coast. The corniche has some wonderful public art (Youssou N’Dour is Senegal’s culture minister.) One of the great things about … Continue reading In Dakar the Hardware Store Comes to You
Ibrahim’s wife had a baby today. In fact at least 5 Ibrahims’ wives have had babies, four boys and a girl. It’s the favorite hustle in Dakar. Ibrahim comes up to us all excited, puts a bracelet on Suzi or a shell in my hand and says he is a new father and it is a custom that the father give gifts. He tells us … Continue reading Do the Hustle – Dakar
In The Gambia I planned a busman’s holiday. I wanted to visit a few development projects. One was St. Joseph’s Training School for men, which is in an historic Portuguese building and also has a market where you can buy things made in the school. Instead our driver took us to the Presentation Girls Vocational School. I knew this wasn’t where I wanted to go … Continue reading Busman’s Holiday — Development Projects in The Gambia.
The Gambia is a river and a country. It has a short coastline at the mouth of the Gambia River and follows the river, along both banks, surrounded by Senegal to the North, South and East. The Gambia River was a major player in the African slave trade. The sea approach to Banjul is difficult. It is shallow with the need to negotiate 20 miles … Continue reading Kunta Kintah
The Gambia reminds me of Albania 25 years ago. Street life looks very much the same (although the dress is more colorful) and the cops are just as corrupt. We hired a cab for the day. As we were leaving a beach resort where I had a beer a traffic cop stopped the oncoming traffic and nodded at our driver who made his left turn … Continue reading Corruption and Color — The Gambia
The Promenade Deck has the dining room, the theater and the cinema. But it has a design flaw. The kitchen sits mid-ship and you can’t get from fore to aft on the promenade deck. We usually use the aft staircase to get to the dining room the deck above us, or the café, library or lounges on the deck above that. But if we are … Continue reading Amsterdam Art 101, (Musings on a Sea Day)
We have crossed the Equator and the Prime Meridian. We have four more ports of call, 11 more sea days, and 15 more nights on the ship. People are starting to talk about the weather at home, how to pack all the stuff they acquired, what they are going to do when they get home, how they are ready to go home, or are not … Continue reading Zero — Zero
The letter from the Captain starts, “We know we are living in a changing world.” He talks about how Holland American is constantly monitoring security and continues, “some ports do present the possibility of more safety and security issues than other ports.” I thought this was the prelude to telling us we were canceling a visit to Luanda, Angola, especially after listening to the port … Continue reading Do We Really Need An Ambulance?
Agostinho Neto was the first President of Angola. His parents, Methodist teachers, sent him to University in Lisbon where he became a medical doctor. He was arrested after becoming involved in a political movement to overthrow the fascist Portuguese leader, Salazar and exiled to the Cape Verde Islands where he became a well-respected doctor. Both an airport and hospital in Cape Verde are named for … Continue reading The Last Gasp of Socialist Realism — Luanda
At 4 AM Thursday morning our sleep was shattered by a piercing alarm, seven short and one long, followed by the officer of the watch announcing there was a fire in the incinerator room. I immediately went into emergency mode, which is to back up my computer on a portable medium. In about 10 minutes the Captain came on to tell us that there was … Continue reading Radio Silence.
I’ve seen a rainbow at sunset but never seen one quite like this. I could describe it but It’s best to let the picture stand on its own. We sailed out of Luanda, Angola yesterday just after sunset. The first group of pictures is from the deck, of the city as customs gave their final clearance and we loosed the lines. I like the “shopping … Continue reading Sunset Rainbow – Sailing Out of Luanda.